The Christmas season in Sweden begins on 13 December (the winter solstice of the old “Julian” pagan calendar) with the celebration of St. Lucia: the event symbolises the return of the light and new life in winter. Children dress all in white, with head wreaths and candles, ready to sing angelic hymns at ceremonies held in schools, workplaces, churches and community halls: the “Lucia bride” (the bearer of light) is a young woman at the centre, with a crown of candles atop her head.
The Christmas spirit starts to take off during November, with decorative window lights piercing the darkness: often star-shaped and made of paper, they typically feature cut-outs, emitting an atmospheric, dappled light. From the 1st of December, the days until Christmas are counted down on an Advent calendar: each of the four Advent Sundays are social events in their own right, marked by lighting a new candle in a four-candle electric candelabra.
Friends and family gather over a cup of steaming Swedish ‘glögg’ (mulled wine) accompanied by gingerbread biscuits and saffron buns (‘lussekatter’), the baking of which is a family tradition held dear: they’re typically shaped like an ‘S’ resembling a curled-up cat, with a raisin pushed into the middle of each ‘swirl’. Another baking-related tradition promoting togetherness comes in the shape of the gingerbread house (‘pepparkakshus’). Families gather to craft these mini buildings, decorating them lavishly with icing sugar and colourful sweets. The making of festive sweets, such as the toffee-like ‘knäck’ and ‘ischoklad’ chocolates, is another popular way to spend an afternoon with loved ones. You’ll also find plenty of seasonal treats at the Swedish Christmas markets held across the country, each one with its own character: there’s a definite social aspect to these atmospheric events and the cosy-factor is high among the twinkle-lit stands. Take the opportunity to purchase gifts and practical items from local artisans, ranging from handcrafted objects in wood and ceramic to knitted mittens and sheepskin slippers. Swedes also love getting together in the outdoors, especially when the ground is covered in snow and glistening ice: favourite activities include exhilarating downhill sledding, long excursions on ice-skates across frozen lakes or peaceful skiing adventures, replete with Christmas-themed fika breaks.
Christmas Eve is the main event: Swedes gather around the buffet-style ‘julbord’, a Christmas smorgasbord that offers the full medley of Swedish Christmas food, with everything from Christmas ham (‘julskinka’) and Swedish meatballs to pickled herring (‘sill’) and chopped beetroot salad (‘rödbetssallad’). Dessert-wise, expect the delicious classic ‘Ris à la Malta’, a vanilla rice pudding typically served with orange slices. And as for drinks, ‘julöl’ a dark, seasonal beer, and the soft drink ‘julmust’ (a bit like root beer) are key, along with traditional snaps.
Around the julbord, “skål” is uttered to mark a toast, and as for other Christmas greetings in Sweden, the most important ones are “God Jul” (Merry Christmas) and “God fortsättning”, meaning “enjoy the rest of the holidays”. In Sweden, Santa (‘jultomten’) joins the party, generously handing out presents in person: the in-joke between grown-ups is for someone to announce that they’re “popping out” to get the newspaper, only to return dressed up as Santa. Unsuspecting children have no idea it’s their dad, mum or neighbour hiding behind the bushy beard.
When the clock strikes 3:00 pm it’s time for a dyed-in-the-wool Swedish tradition: gathering in front of the TV to watch the annual ‘Donald Duck and his friends wish you a Merry Christmas’ show (‘Kalle Anka och hans vänner önskar God Jul’), a medley of Disney classics (including Cinderella, Snow White and Mickey Mouse) featuring original clips as well as more recent additions.
Wherever you end up celebrating the Christmas season in Sweden, an elaborate feast at home or in one of the castle hotels and historic manor houses that offer idyllic Christmas packages, you’re bound to have an unforgettable experience, possibly avoiding the ‘Christmas prep’, or ‘julstök’ in Swedish (the ‘messiness’ of Christmas).
Read more on Visitsweden.se
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