
Ever since ‘Noma‘ was judged the best restaurant in the world in 2010 (and then four more times, the last in 2021), Copenhagen has become one of the world’s ‘food’ capitals, the epicentre of ‘new Nordic’ cuisine, a place where choosing a restaurant requires hours of study because it is here that research and experimentation are carried out at European level. In this context, the pizzeria ‘MaMeMi‘, opened in 2019 by three Roman guys and offering the typical thin pizza of Rome paired with wine instead of beer, has become one of the most famous in the city in just a few years. There are many pizzerias in the Danish capital, including the ‘Bæst‘ in the lively Nörrebro district, awarded as the best pizzeria in Europe, which implements an original formula: you order one pizza at a time because all the diners at a table have to taste it and share it. The ‘MaMeMi’, on the other hand, is located in Vesterbro, a more popular area now much redeveloped. The trademark is Roman pizza, lower and crispier, made with many hours of rising, offered with typical Roman ingredients and paired with wine. Opening a restaurant in Denmark has proven to be much easier than in Italy and one is also put in a position to work in peace: the very first restaurant opened by the founders of ‘MaMeMi’ was a take-away pizzeria outside the city. The latest Michelin guide lists 28 starred restaurants in Denmark, about fifteen in Copenhagen including two tristellati (‘Noma‘ and ‘Geranium‘) and five bistellati: a record, considering the Danish capital’s population of only 640,000. This shower of stars has raised the level of quality, making the Danes a competent, demanding and refined public, who have been won over by ‘MaMeMi’: the clientele is also made up of Italians who live here and want to breathe the air of home and tourists. Copenhagen is one of the most expensive cities in the world, so dining out is expensive and even pizza is not cheap. The explosion of the food sector has made the Danes very pleasure-loving: since they finish work early, at 5 o’clock they have an aperitif and at 6 o’clock they are already at dinner, as in the whole of Northern Europe. Among the iconic ‘MaMeMi’ pizzas: carbonara; with guanciale, caramelised onions and apples; with chicory ripassata; with mortadella, gorgonzola and pistachio grains. We dined at ‘MaMeMi’ in April 2019 and it was a truly great experience, but for this article we have also relied on Gianluca Roselli’s review recently published on Ilfoglio.it
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