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Christmas — or Joulu, as it is called in Finland — has a distinctive charm that sets it apart even among the Nordic countries. While Finland shares many customs and dishes with its Scandinavian neighbours, there is always something slightly unconventional about the Finnish way of celebrating. What else would you expect from the homeland of Santa Claus?

Hilda Lainen’s book describes Christmas in Finland (Amazon)

At the very heart of the Finnish Christmas spirit lies Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland, located right on the Arctic Circle. Officially recognised as the home of Santa Claus, the city’s famous Santa Claus Village welcomes visitors from all over the world — children and adults alike — to meet Joulupukki himself. Between writing letters, visiting the post office, and crossing the Arctic Circle line, visitors can also enjoy quintessential Arctic adventures: husky and reindeer sleigh rides, snowshoeing through frozen forests, or chasing the Northern Lights across the polar night sky.

Picture: Oriol Portell (Unsplash)

From the Christmas Goat to Joulupukki

The Finnish Santa has a fascinating backstory. Before Joulupukki became the kind, red-clad figure beloved today, he had a much darker past as Nuuttipukki — the “Christmas Goat.” In older times, the Nuuttipukki was a masked, horned creature who went door to door during midwinter, demanding food and drink. Over centuries, this figure softened into the benevolent gift-giver of today, though the word pukki (“goat”) still lingers in his name.

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On Christmas Eve, Finnish families gather for the highlight of the season: the traditional joulupöytä, a festive buffet reminiscent of the Swedish julbord but with its own Arctic twist. At the centre of the table stands a baked Christmas ham, served with mustard, surrounded by an array of fish dishes — gravlax, herring, or cold-smoked salmon. Root vegetable casseroles are another hallmark: lanttulaatikko (rutabaga), porkkanalaatikko (carrot), and perunalaatikko (potato) are comfort foods that warm even the darkest Lapland night. For a sweet finish, joulutorttu — star-shaped pastries filled with prune jam — and spiced gingerbread cookies bring a scent of cinnamon and nostalgia to every home.

Mannerheimintie (Helsinki). Picture: Unsplash

The Warm Heart of a Cold Season

No Finnish Christmas is complete without rice porridge, sprinkled with cinnamon and hiding a single blanched almond — a playful tradition borrowed from Denmark’s Risalamande. The lucky finder of the almond is said to receive good fortune, or a small gift. And, of course, a glass of steaming glögi — Finland’s version of mulled wine, either with or without alcohol — is a must. Beyond food and folklore, Joulu is also about rituals of warmth and togetherness. Among them, the Christmas sauna holds a sacred place: a moment of quiet reflection and purification before the festive celebrations. Many Finns still leave a small offering — perhaps a ladle of water or a bit of bread — for the Saunatonttu, the friendly “sauna elf” said to protect the bathhouse. Finally, as candles glow against the snow and the spruce tree twinkles with handmade ornaments and gingerbread cookies, Finnish Christmas reveals its truest self: a season where light conquers darkness, and ancient beliefs coexist peacefully with modern joy.

Kittilä. Picture: Colin White (Unsplash)

In the land where Santa lives, Christmas isn’t just a holiday — it’s a return to wonder, to silence, and to the heart of the Nordic winter.

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