As soon as the sun sets—already around four in the afternoon during the Icelandic winter—the Valkyries begin to raise their shields. At least, that is what ancient legend tells us. In Norse mythology, these warrior maidens of Odin were believed to conjure the Northern Lights, the shimmering green-blue arcs that sweep across the sky when solar particles collide with Earth’s atmosphere. Today, the Valkyries are no longer searching for fallen heroes, unless we count the travellers wrapped in thermal layers, braving wind and cold with cameras poised, waiting for the sky to ignite. And this winter has been one of the most spectacular in recent years. For aurora hunters, Iceland remains one of the best places on Earth to witness this celestial ballet.
Easy to Reach, Impossible to Forget
Located just south of the Arctic Circle, Iceland is surprisingly accessible. Direct flights from everywhere make it possible to organise even a long weekend escape, landing in a country where raw nature, folklore, and modern comfort coexist effortlessly. Before nightfall, Reykjavík invites visitors to slow down. A stroll along Laugavegur, the city’s main shopping street, leads naturally to Hallgrímskirkja, whose 75m tower dominates the skyline. From the top, the view stretches across colourful rooftops to the icy Atlantic beyond. Iceland is not a budget destination, but affordable local favourites exist. A stop at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, hailed by The Guardian as Europe’s best hot-dog stand, is almost mandatory. For something warmer, Sægreifinn serves hearty fish skewers and one of the city’s most beloved lobster soups.
On the Road: Chasing Darkness and Light
As night approaches, the best strategy is to leave the city lights behind. Icelandic roads are kept remarkably clear even in winter, and many rental cars come equipped with studded tyres. Driving out into the darkness becomes part of the adventure. The classic Golden Circle route is an ideal introduction to Iceland’s dramatic landscapes. The journey begins at Þingvellir National Park, where visitors can walk between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates—a place of geological wonder and historic importance, and a filming location for Game of Thrones. A short drive away lies the geothermal area of Geysir. While the original Great Geysir is now mostly dormant, nearby Strokkur erupts every few minutes, sending boiling water up to ten metres into the air. The route continues to Gullfoss, where winter transforms the roaring waterfall into a frozen cathedral of ice and mist. The night is best spent near Vík, famous for the black-sand beach of Reynisfjara. With minimal light pollution, it is an excellent base for watching the aurora dance above the Atlantic. The return to Reykjavík offers more natural drama: Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, the latter famous for the path that allows visitors to walk behind the falling water. Waterproof clothing is essential.
Steam, Silence, and Northern Lights
No winter journey to Iceland is complete without a geothermal soak. One of the newest additions is Laugarás Lagoon, located along the Golden Circle. Its infinity-edge pool stretches across nearly 1,000 square metres, overlooking the Hvítá river, and includes a swim-up bar, sauna, and steam bath. A couple of hours here redefine the concept of relaxation—especially if the Northern Lights appear overhead. Dinner follows naturally at the on-site restaurant Ylja, where chef Gísli Matthías crafts refined dishes using wild herbs, local fish and meats, and vegetables grown in nearby greenhouses. Some of these foraged herbs even find their way into inventive cocktails. In Iceland, winter is not a season to endure—it is a spectacle to witness. Between geysers that breathe steam into the frozen air, waterfalls locked in ice, and skies alive with colour, the land of the dancing lights feels less like a destination and more like a living fairytale.
