Beyond the island’s busiest routes lies another Iceland: a land of volcanic unrest, glacial rivers, remote fjords and enduring stories in which the boundaries between geology and mythology become almost impossible to separate.
Ásbyrgi, the footprint of Sleipnir
The journey begins at Ásbyrgi, a vast horseshoe-shaped canyon in the northern section of Vatnajökull National Park. Its near-vertical cliffs rise to around 100 metres, enclosing an unexpectedly sheltered landscape of birch, willow and rowan around the central rock formation known as Eyjan, or “the Island”. Scientists attribute the canyon principally to catastrophic glacial floods from the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river, but Icelandic folklore offers a more evocative explanation: Ásbyrgi was created when Sleipnir, Odin’s eight-legged horse, placed one immense hoof upon the Earth. Walking beneath the cliffs, protected from the wind and surrounded by thick vegetation, it is easy to understand why the legend has survived alongside the geological account.
Dettifoss and the power of glacial water
From Ásbyrgi, the route follows the Jökulsá á Fjöllum canyon system towards Dettifoss, one of Europe’s most powerful waterfalls. Fed by glacial water originating beneath the Vatnajökull ice cap, the river carries vast quantities of sediment across Iceland’s interior before plunging approximately 44 metres into Jökulsárgljúfur. The falls announce themselves through a deep roar long before they become visible, while clouds of spray rise from the gorge and partially erase the surrounding landscape. Dettifoss can be approached from the paved western Road 862 or the rougher eastern Road 864, although access varies according to the season and travellers should always check official road conditions before choosing their route.
Across the restless ground of Krafla
South of Dettifoss, the landscape becomes increasingly volcanic around the Krafla caldera and Leirhnjúkur. Marked trails cross black, red and ochre lava deposited during the Krafla Fires, a prolonged sequence of eruptions and rifting events between 1975 and 1984. Fumaroles, sulphurous ground and steam escaping through fissures reveal that the volcanic system remains active beneath the surface. The terrain may appear raw and indestructible, but its formations are both fragile and potentially dangerous, making it essential to remain on the designated paths. Nearby Grjótagjá, a small lava cave containing geothermal water, offers another glimpse of the heat concealed beneath the Mývatn region, although unstable water temperatures mean that bathing is prohibited.
Lake Mývatn and the Dark Fortress
Around Lake Mývatn, volcanic activity has created one of the most varied landscapes in northern Iceland. Its most theatrical formation is Dimmuborgir, the “Dark Fortress”, a labyrinth of lava pillars, arches and caves created more than two thousand years ago when molten lava flowed across wetlands and cooled around pockets of escaping steam. The resulting structures resemble ruined castles, gateways and underground chambers, providing an ideal setting for Icelandic folklore. Dimmuborgir is traditionally presented as the home of the fearsome troll Grýla, her husband Leppalúði and their thirteen sons, the Yule Lads, who descend from the mountains one by one during the thirteen nights before Christmas.
Akureyri and the gateway to the north
For many travellers, Akureyri provides the most convenient urban base for exploring this region. Set at the head of Eyjafjörður, the town combines museums, cafés and botanical gardens with access to the volcanic landscapes around Mývatn and the Diamond Circle. The surrounding fjord is also among Iceland’s established destinations for whale-watching excursions, offering opportunities to encounter humpback whales, harbour porpoises and other marine species. Although Akureyri is sometimes called Iceland’s northern capital, its compact scale and proximity to open countryside make it feel less like a conventional city than a comfortable threshold between settlement and wilderness.
Borgarfjörður Eystri and the hidden people
Beyond Mývatn, the journey turns towards the East Fjords and Borgarfjörður Eystri, a small coastal settlement enclosed by mountains of rhyolite and basalt. Above the village rises Álfaborg, the “Castle of the Elves”, where local tradition places the residence of the queen of Iceland’s hidden people, the huldufólk. Such stories belong to a wider Icelandic cultural tradition in which particular rocks, hills and isolated places possess inhabitants and identities of their own. Borgarfjörður Eystri is also one of East Iceland’s principal hiking areas, while nearby Hafnarhólmi offers exceptionally accessible views of nesting Atlantic puffins, generally present from approximately mid-April until early August.
Seyðisfjörður at the end of the mountain road
The route reaches its natural conclusion at Seyðisfjörður, approached from Egilsstaðir across the Fjarðarheiði mountain pass. The descent reveals a narrow fjord surrounded by steep slopes and waterfalls, with colourful timber houses gathered beside the water. Many of these buildings reflect the town’s historic connections with Norwegian merchants and craftspeople who helped transform Seyðisfjörður during the herring era of the late nineteenth century. Today, the settlement combines its working harbour with an unusually rich cultural life, including artists’ residencies, exhibitions and the annual LungA festival. Its rainbow-painted street and pale-blue church may be its most photographed sights, but Seyðisfjörður’s deeper appeal lies in the sensation of arriving in a self-contained world shaped equally by the sea, the mountains and the long road across the pass.
Following the route through the seasons
Northern and eastern Iceland reward slow travel rather than hurried sightseeing. The complete itinerary requires several days, and attempting to compress Ásbyrgi, Dettifoss, Krafla, Mývatn, Borgarfjörður Eystri and Seyðisfjörður into a single drive would leave little time for walking or weather-related changes. Summer generally provides the broadest access, while autumn and winter can transform the region into a setting for Northern Lights experiences, provided that roads remain open and skies are clear. Families planning the journey can also explore a broader selection of Icelandic activities suitable for children. Whatever the season, travellers should consult Iceland’s official road and weather services before every departure, respect closures and carry appropriate clothing: in this part of the country, the landscape still determines the timetable.
Suggested Online Sources Vatnajökull National Park | Visit North Iceland | Visit Mývatn | Visit East Iceland | Visit Borgarfjörður Eystri | Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration | Icelandic Met Office
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