From the hoof-shaped canyon of Ásbyrgi to the elfin landscapes of Borgarfjörður Eystri and the waterfalls of Seyðisfjörður, this route reveals an Iceland shaped by volcanic violence, glacial water and stories that still inhabit the land.
Ásbyrgi, where geology meets the world of Odin
The journey begins at Ásbyrgi, a vast horseshoe-shaped canyon in the northern reaches of Vatnajökull National Park. Its cliffs rise abruptly around a surprisingly sheltered interior of birch, willow and thick vegetation, divided by the distinctive rock formation known as Eyjan, or “the Island”. Geologists attribute the canyon to catastrophic glacial floods from the Jökulsá á Fjöllum, but Icelandic legend offers a more memorable explanation: Ásbyrgi was formed when Sleipnir, Odin’s eight-legged horse, placed one enormous hoof upon the earth. The accessible walk towards the small lake of Botnstjörn conveys the canyon’s unusual silence, while longer paths lead onto Eyjan and towards viewpoints over the great amphitheatre. Ásbyrgi forms part of North Iceland’s Diamond Circle and can be reached from either Akureyri or Húsavík, making it a natural starting point for exploring a less congested side of Iceland.
Hljóðaklettar and the canyon of echoes
South of Ásbyrgi, the Jökulsárgljúfur section of the national park contains several places that deserve more attention than they usually receive. At Hljóðaklettar, meaning “Echo Rocks”, the river has exposed extraordinary basalt columns arranged in rosettes, honeycombs and apparently architectural patterns. Sound rebounds strangely between the formations, helping to explain the name and adding to the place’s almost ceremonial atmosphere. Nearby Hólmatungur is greener and gentler, with springs, small waterfalls and paths overlooking the Jökulsá á Fjöllum, while the Rauðhólar trail climbs through vividly coloured volcanic terrain. Farther south, Hafragilsfoss plunges into the canyon beneath stark layered cliffs. These stops turn the road between Ásbyrgi and Dettifoss into a journey in its own right, although travellers should allow far more time than the map suggests and check seasonal road conditions before setting out.
Dettifoss and the force of glacial water
Dettifoss announces itself through vibration and sound before it comes fully into view. Fed by the sediment-heavy Jökulsá á Fjöllum, the waterfall sends a grey wall of glacial water into the canyon and ranks among Europe’s most powerful falls. Its scale is best appreciated not as an isolated attraction but as part of a sequence: Selfoss lies upstream, spreading across a broad horseshoe-shaped ledge, while Hafragilsfoss waits farther downstream. Paths connect viewpoints along the western side, creating a more complete encounter with the river’s geology and force. Access varies markedly with the season: Route 862 on the western side and Route 864 on the eastern side should never be treated as interchangeable without first consulting the official Icelandic road and weather services. Spray, ice and sudden changes in visibility can also make the walking paths considerably more demanding than their short distances imply.
Krafla, Leirhnjúkur and a landscape still moving
Near Lake Mývatn, the Krafla volcanic system reveals an Iceland that is not merely volcanic in origin but visibly active. At Leirhnjúkur, paths cross black lava from the Krafla Fires of 1975–84, passing steaming fissures, mineral-stained ground and formations that still appear unnervingly recent. The earth can be fragile and dangerously hot away from the marked trail, so the landscape must be observed without stepping beyond the designated paths. Nearby Víti is an explosion crater containing a blue-green lake, while the Hverir geothermal area presents a harsher theatre of bubbling mud, fumaroles and sulphur-coloured soil beneath Námafjall. Together, these sites demonstrate how thin the apparently solid crust can be in this part of the country: heat, water and gas remain active just below the visitor’s feet.
Lake Mývatn beyond Dimmuborgir
Dimmuborgir, the “Dark Fortress”, is a labyrinth of lava towers, caves and arches created when molten rock flowed over wet ground and a temporary lava lake partially drained away. Icelandic Christmas folklore associates the area with Grýla and the thirteen Yule Lads, yet Dimmuborgir is only one element of the wider Mývatn landscape. The steep path onto Hverfjall leads to the rim of an immense tephra crater and panoramic views across the lake, while the Skútustaðagígar pseudocraters were formed by steam explosions rather than conventional volcanic vents. At Höfði, woodland paths reach strange lava pillars standing in the water, and Grjótagjá conceals a geothermal fissure beneath its rocky roof. Travellers can complete the day in the region’s geothermal baths or explore its remarkable birdlife, which depends upon the lake’s prolific insects and wetlands. A summer face net may prove more useful here than any fashionable piece of outdoor equipment.
Húsavík and the living North Atlantic
A rewarding northern extension leads to Húsavík, whose harbour opens onto Skjálfandi Bay and one of Iceland’s best-known whale-watching areas. The town provides a living counterpart to the route’s rocks and legends: humpback whales, minke whales, dolphins and seabirds move through waters framed by the mountains of the opposite shore. Whale sightings can never be guaranteed, but an excursion from Húsavík—or an alternative whale-watching trip from Akureyri—adds an important marine dimension to a journey otherwise dominated by volcanoes and rivers. Húsavík is also home to a respected whale museum, while the sea-facing GeoSea geothermal baths offer a restorative pause before continuing towards the interior or returning to the Diamond Circle.
Stuðlagil, Hengifoss and the road into the East
Travellers heading towards Egilsstaðir can add Stuðlagil, one of East Iceland’s most striking basalt canyons. Its immense columns were long partly concealed beneath the waters of the Jökla river and became more visible after changes to the river’s flow, revealing walls of geometric rock above water whose colour varies with season and conditions. Reaching the principal viewpoint and descending into the canyon are different propositions, so visitors should research the chosen side in advance and respect closures and marked paths. South of Egilsstaðir, Hengifoss provides another worthwhile detour: the high waterfall descends across a cliff marked by red bands of clay between dark basalt layers, with Litlanesfoss and its columnar surroundings encountered along the ascent. Back near Egilsstaðir, the floating pools of Vök Baths extend into Lake Urriðavatn and provide a gentler conclusion to a day of hiking.
Borgarfjörður Eystri, puffins and the Hidden People
Borgarfjörður Eystri is not simply a stop on the way to Seyðisfjörður but a substantial detour north-east of Egilsstaðir, reached by a spectacular road through rhyolite mountains and along the coast. Above the village of Bakkagerði stands Álfaborg, the “City of Elves”, traditionally regarded as the residence of an important queen of the huldufólk, Iceland’s Hidden People. The belief is best understood not as a picturesque curiosity but as part of a cultural vocabulary expressing respect for places that appear inhabited even when no human presence can be seen. From mid-April to mid-August, Hafnarhólmi harbour offers exceptionally accessible puffin watching from purpose-built platforms, while hikers can venture towards Stórurð, where giant boulders surround intensely coloured pools beneath the Dyrfjöll mountains. The longer Víknaslóðir trails connect abandoned inlets, mountain passes and remote coves, rewarding those able to devote several days to the region.
Seyðisfjörður at the end of the mountain road
To reach Seyðisfjörður, travellers must return towards Egilsstaðir and cross the Fjarðarheiði pass, descending past waterfalls into a long, narrow fjord. The town’s painted wooden houses, many connected to Norwegian merchants and craftsmen, create one of Iceland’s most coherent historic streetscapes. Rainbow Street and the pale-blue church provide its most familiar image, but the real character of Seyðisfjörður emerges along the waterfront, in its artist-led cultural life and on the surrounding paths. The Waterfall Lane walk follows the Fjarðará past a succession of cascades, while Vestdalur offers a longer excursion through a protected valley. Farther along the fjord, Skálanes combines nature conservation, research and cultural history in a landscape of wetlands, cliffs and seabird colonies. Weather on the mountain pass can change quickly outside summer, making road checks essential even when conditions beside the fjord appear calm.
Planning a route that respects distance and season
This extended journey should not be compressed into a single rushed circuit. At least two days are warranted for Ásbyrgi, Jökulsárgljúfur, Dettifoss and the Mývatn–Krafla area, with another day for Húsavík if whale watching is included. Stuðlagil, Hengifoss and Vök Baths can fill a further day around Egilsstaðir, while Borgarfjörður Eystri and Seyðisfjörður are separate branches from the regional hub and deserve at least one day each. Summer brings long daylight, open mountain roads and puffins, whereas autumn and winter demand much greater flexibility. Before every remote drive, visitors should consult road.is and SafeTravel, carry suitable clothing and avoid assuming that a short distance on the map means an easy journey. North and East Iceland reward patience: their finest places are not simply viewed but gradually understood through weather, silence and the immense spaces between them.
Suggested Online Sources
Environment Agency of Iceland – Dettifoss and Jökulsárgljúfur
North Iceland – The Diamond Circle
Visit East Iceland – Regional destinations
Visit Iceland – East Iceland
Borgarfjörður Eystri – Puffin colony
Skálanes Nature and Heritage Centre
Vök Baths
SafeTravel Iceland
Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration
